Jaipur by day

The week has been so full of things to see that I have not had time to shake off this cold. So, this morning, I give up and decide to stay in while Fredy goes exploring one last time before we leave for Jodhpur tomorrow.

Silver lining – always that silver lining – I can catch you up on our news. A quick wrap-up of previous post first...We had a great trip from Delhi to Jaipur. An odd twist of events has made it that we had the services of a driver to take us here and were therefore able to take unplanned sidetrips. So Anit, aforementioned driver, took us to Amber Fort, a beautiful example of Mogul architecture. All this Mogul culture leaves you conflicted. It has given India some magnificent landmarks but I fear at the expense of indigenous expression. Fredy, my personal guide, tells me this is especially so in Rajasthan.

Our home away from home

Anit safely delivers his charges to our hotel on Jaipur, away from the town center (which we will come to appreciate as days go by). The hotel, a small haveli-style building, has preserved a lot of the old-style charm with 15-feet high ceilings, stained glass doors, marble floor. Because life is always a matter of balance, we should mention that it has also retained old-style plumbing and electricity! An extra bonus, the rooftop restaurant that serves great food. Their specialty: Indian food.

The privileged tranquility

Day One takes us to some of the towns highlights...the Wind Palace, actually a fake palace with only a facade that allowed women to remain unseen so they could watch the street below. City Palace, quite a beautiful setting, comes with the usual suite of excessive luxury: audience rooms, marble throughout, chandelliers. Given the contrast with life outside these walls, I am quick to judge past inhabitants.

Where old traditions die hard

 

Live and learn, I say. Turns out one of the rulers, Sawai Jai Singh, was quite progressive. Well, as progressive as one can be when you insist on being called Mr. Ruler. A bit a la Bill Gates, non? Seriously, the Maharajah had a heart and a conscience. He promoted the use of Sanskrit (sa version de la Loi 101), repealed a tax unfair to the Hindu population, banned the practice of Sati (come on, people! Go check it out on Wikipedia). He was also the guy behind the Observatory that is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list. We did not make it there. Only so much education this girl can take, as my many unfinished degrees will attest.

Watching them, watching him

We begin Day Two with a visit to the Albert Hall. This is where research pays off. Fredy knew that there were a few brunettes waiting for him at the museum. In a place where there seems to be no rules, where pigeons fly and deposit their droppings on display cases, you will understand that no one objected to the white guy taking photographs. It was, however, found peculiar. People stopping by to see what the "Sir" was doing. Then, they moved on with a smile and knowledge that foreigners were indeed odd. Besides the musical instruments, which were priceless for Fredy, the best part of the visit was watching the public going through, the museum obviously a big draw for Jaipur families.

Block print, a specialty of Rajasthan starts with patience

The rest of the day is spent doing what Fredy and I like to do best: exploring without a goal but the thrill of the discovery. To the Pink City we go, turn left, turn right, step aside to make room for the cow (the cow, in India, ALWAYS has the right of way), enjoy the company of children who practice their three words of English and decline kind offers of the world's best pashminas, new antique Kashmir carpets made in Rajasthan.







Fast facts:

• Dinner on our rooftop restaurant sets us back $7.00...for two
• Fredy is best understood by the locals when he puts on the Indian accent he has been refining all these years. Who knew it would, one day, come in handy!
• Our days start early and quickly. They are then so full that we are done by dinner time. So, with apologies, you will find out very little about Jaipur by night.

 

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