Much like you wouldn't think of going to Italy if you did not like pasta, o
ne should not come to India if you do not like Indian food, rich in layers of flavors with just the right level of heat to keep things interesting, all softened with a generous amount of ghee (Fredy's doctor says that if we don't call it butter, we don't have to worry about cholesterol). Unless you stay at Taj hotels where they have developped the art of cocooning, Indian food is what you get. Oh, the odd "multi-cuisine restaurant" will serve minestrone and the Indian version of Chinese food. But why would you want to do that? Fredy and I are in culinary heaven.The bit I did not know is how predominantly vegetarian Indians are. So, a steady diet of curried vegetables, paneer of all sorts, lentils (I ate, I tasted, I survived), eggs and bread. Toss in the odd banana and that's it. Indian cooks are so masterful with the spices that you don't miss the meat one bit. Truth be told, after seeing the animal kingdom on the street all day, the idea of eating meat had no appeal.
And cheap!!!! A full course dinner for two (naan, rice, couple of dishes, dessert and a shared Kingfisher beer) would set us back $15.00. If you venture off the reservation, you can have the same meal (minus the beer) for $5.00. Remember that the average annual income is below 40,000 rupees (about 50 rupees to the dollar). This reality check will quickly turn what seems to be a bargain into a considerable expense for the average Indian.
And the sweets! The Indians do like their sweets and with good reasons. Milky confections with hints of cardamom and saffron. Yum!Much like the rest of the world, the making of the food, the act of feeding the family is one done by women. They grow it, they harvest it, they sell it at the market where other women shop for it, they cook it in hidden-away kitchens. But funnily enough, when it comes to serving it, the women disappear and in come the men to do the heavy lifting. For 21 days, 21 afternoon coffee breaks and 50 or so meals, not one woman waitress. Maybe, the caring males are afraid they would trip, not seeing clearly what with that veil!
To be fair, men did make a showing in what seems to be the Indian equivalent of the BBQ...the fryer. The corner samosa stand the the man's domain where friends (male friends, that is) gather and discuss the latest cricket match or poor Ravi whose daughter insists on wearing trousers. Guys also take the lead in the dal contest. Looks like that "mine is bigger than yours" thing is universal.
